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In conversation with Sideline founder Ellen Brookes

Hi Ellen, Thank you so much for taking the time to talk with us ahead of us launching Sideline here at MamaOwl. I can tell you, the news of which, sent an excited buzz around our office!

Your commitment to thoughtful design and sustainability is evident in Sideline's ethos. Can you tell us more about the inspiration behind the bright colourway for this capsule collection?

The inspiration for the whole SS24 collection is under the theme ‘Grow’ - allowing things to grow and flourish in their own time and at their own pace in the same way a wild garden would.  When things are left to nature without human intervention they don't cease to exist, they find their own rhythm and harmony. The SS24 collection started with a softer palette inspired by the start of the Spring seasons flora and fauna. As we move into the 2nd drop and closer to Summer the colour builds to a more vibrant palette.  I also wanted to inject some positivity through colour, and I think this drop feels full of joy.  

 

That’s wonderful and it’s really lovely to be stocking a vivid collection. What potential challenges did you face in getting Sideline out there initially and establishing routes to market?

As we approach the Sideline turning 10 next year, I have been reflecting on this a lot and for me it really links back to this season’s theme of ‘Grow’ - letting things ‘flower’ at their own pace. A quote from our recent seasonal look book - 

‘We’ve allowed ourselves time to take root, naturally finding our niche and customers.  This patience also means we can adopt a thoughtful and conscientious design process, prioritising the things we care about and creating timeless, high-quality pieces you can wear again and again’. 

Of course, there have been lots of challenges along the way, finding the right manufacturing partner for our small runs being one of the hardest but we are in a very good place with that now - we adore and trust our partners.

The use of indigo fabrics in Sideline's designs is intriguing. How does the incorporation of this traditional material play into the contemporary aesthetic of the brand?

The collection started as an all-indigo range as my background is in denim design and development but over the years this has evolved beyond this.  We now make a full collection and although indigo and denim often feature, it’s not the core of the collection anymore.  

Could you set the scene for your designing setup - we hear it once involved a converted brewery!

So our first studio was in an old, converted brewery full of artist and makers studios but we out-grew that space a few years ago.  We have just moved to something quite different - we are in a new industrial unit on the River Ouse in Lewes. The space is big and light with lots of windows (the outlook slightly less romantic as we over-look Homebase but look beyond that and we can see onto the South Downs).  We have our office/design studio upstairs on a mezzanine with a showroom/ by appointment space downstairs along with our stockroom for online orders.  We are nearing the end of converting this space from an industrial shell with breeze block walls and concrete floors into something that feels warm and cosy.

Your focus on creating pieces meant to be cherished and worn repeatedly is commendable. How do you integrate this philosophy into the design process?

Fabrics is key - we only use natural fibres and work with fabrics that age well. I often select fabrics that will improve with age in the same way denim does.  I also don’t chase faddy trends or items that will tire quickly.  There are some silhouettes that I have been doing for the last 10 years and still look fresh.  I aim for lots of newness in how I use the fabrics (patchwork has always been part of the collection) and colour use.

Sideline's audience seems to be women who value integrity and thoughtfulness in design, which makes you a great fit for us at MamaOwl. How do you ensure that the brand stays connected with its target demographic while also evolving creatively?

I try to stay close to my customers via social media and by answering their questions whenever possible.  I think I am also part of that target demographic so I really think about what my friends and I want and need from clothes, how they can fit our lifestyles and not feel forced.  Comfort and ease of wear is always key, I want people to feel happy and confident in Sideline.

Sideline's dedication to ethical manufacturing and fair working conditions is admirable. How do you ensure that these principles are upheld throughout the supply chain?

I only work with a couple of manufacturers which means I can stay close to them. One is based in Scotland (all knitwear) and has been around for over 100 years, they are masters at what they do - all the machinery is traditional and seam-free meaning no waste either.  One of my other key manufacturers is a tiny company in Vietnam where I work directly with the owner, we chat daily on WhatsApp, and I trust her 100%.  She does all sorts of amazing things like funding an orphanage via the factory. They work on a program to teach the kids English and help them into education, if they don't want to go on to college, she provides apprentice schemes so they can become seamstresses or work in accounts etc.  The owner is Vietnamese but grew up in the US, she set this up to give back the country her family are from.  It’s not cheap to work with manufacturers like this and it definitely squeezes profit but I'd rather that than be pushing for better prices and screwing everyone else over in the process.

Do you have a favourite piece from the capsule that we will be stocking?

You are actually carrying a few of my favourite items. I love the orange-y red of the Hills Dress and am also so excited about the Tally Dress in patchwork (I always love patchwork and colour blocking).  The Moon Top and Amber Trousers are so good for every day.  

Lastly, what can we expect from Sideline in the future regarding sustainability initiatives and design innovation?

The most important thing to me has always been, and will continue to be, making clothes that last and will be loved (and therefore taken care of) for years to come.  When clothes are cheap and throw-away it creates an attitude as to how they are cared for too (or not cared for).  I believe in investing in one or two items you will love and cherish and will wear for years to come.  Obviously, body shapes change and sometimes people just want to update their wardrobes, but Sideline has a great re-sale value, so the clothes continue to be loved beyond the wear of their first owner.  There is no greater joy for me but to hear from people who are still wearing items they bought from the first collection.  

I will continue to look for ways to improve too, we can always do better.  From a design POV I am super excited to revisit some of our early pieces as part of a kind of retrospective collection for our 10th birthday - maybe that’s the opposite of innovation but it does show true to our designs having longevity. 

Thank you so much Ellen, it's been great to learn a little more about Sideline and what makes it so wonderful. Our collection launches in store on Thurs 28th March at 9am. Click here to shop once live!

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